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The magic of the Triana neighborhood, from Van Gogh to the bullfighter Juan Belmonte

Updated: Oct 8, 2023

Puente de Triana , Sevilla

When we cross the Guadalquivir river over the Triana bridge from Seville we arrive at the Plaza del Altozano, the heart of this mythical neighborhood.

Normally when you do a tourist tour or a free tour in Seville you end up in the Triana neighborhood, the tour is also like that, with the difference that with you save money , you can choose the schedule and dedicate the time you want to each point of the route.

It is interesting that the real name of the Triana Bridge is Puente de Isabel II although hardly anyone calls it that. This bridge had a twin in Paris until 1930, the Carousel bridge, which was painted by Van Gogh, so some Sevillian who sees the painting of the bridge in Paris thinks that Van Gogh was in Seville. Currently the old Carousel bridge in Paris has been replaced by another, which is still called the Carousel bridge, but which no longer resembles the Triana steel bridge.

In the Plaza del Altozano we find the food market that is worth visiting, there we can get to know the authentic idiosyncrasies of the neighborhood as many of its inhabitants continue to frequent this market to do their daily shopping, and there we can also enjoy one of its stores of its wonderful gastronomy.

The Triana neighborhood has traditionally been a humble and working-class neighborhood, its inhabitants were potters, blacksmiths and sailors. This neighborhood has always lived facing the river, and many of the sailors who left for America in the days of the Spanish empire were trained there.

Triana is also famous for its artists and intellectuals, among them we find flamenco singers and dancers, writers and bullfighters. Some famous flamenco artists from the neighborhood are Camarón de la Isla, Antonio Canales, Isabel Pantoja Estrella Morente and the guitarist Paco de Lucía

In the same Plaza del Altozano we find the statue of Juan Belmonte, the famous Sevillian bullfighter called "el Pasmo de Triana", it is said that he was the founder of modern bullfighting. This bullfighter was born in Seville in 1892 and died in 1962. His rivalry with another bullfighter, José Gomez called "Joselito", who was another Sevillian bullfighter of gypsy ethnicity on his mother's side, is famous. Belmonte and Joselito were both extraordinary bullfighters and led the so-called golden age of bullfighting during the 1910s.

Estatua de JUan Belmonte, Sevilla

Belmonte was a person without studies, but of extraordinary intelligence and a great reader, he was a friend of intellectuals and writers such as Valle-Inclán or Gerardo Diego, and also of the American Ernst Hemingway, he appeared in two of his novels, "Death in the afternoon" and "Party".

When you visit Triana, it is also a must to visit its taverns and bars, many of which can be found taking a walk along Calle Betis on the banks of the Guadalquivir.


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